In his book ‘Bills Basics’ (which I thoroughly recommend), Bill Granger says that he stopped eating meat when he was in India, because the choice of vegetable dishes was so vast. Having recently returned from India, just in time to beat the worst of the Covid-19 madness, I know exactly what he means.

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Since 2010 I’ve kept a food diary – a record of the meals I’ve made and the things we’ve eaten virtually every day since then. What would be the purpose of doing such a thing, do I hear you ask? Read on, and note the stylish segue to the recipe for kedgeree.

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If you’ve been following along closely and paying attention you’ve probably figured out I like a curry, and more specifically Indian curries and Indian style food in general. In these days of globalisation, world commodity markets and modern efficient transport I find it easy to take for granted the spices I use every day, but it wasn’t always the case.

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Lamb shanks have come a long way, as have many foods traditionally seen as ‘cheaper cuts’. Things that benefit from hours of slow cooking, which includes lamb shanks and beef cheeks among others, have become extremely popular in recent years, and following the inverse relationship of supply and demand the price has become increasingly unpopular. On the other hand there’s a lot of recipe variety for ways to prepare them, and this lamb shank curry is but one of them.

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Keema (Curry)

Growing up as a child in the 1960s and early ‘70s, food in Australia was a pretty staid affair, consistent with what one might think of as ‘traditional British food’, not surprising given Australia’s (post-European) British history. My mother was a very good cook, winning awards at shows for her cookery, and we ate adventurously for the time, but even with that it was still far removed from the sorts of things we eat today.

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Murray Tyler


South Australia